Marpha (2710m)

The hike to Marpha was kind of neat since the trail brought us down to the riverbed. At this time of year, the river is pretty small compared to the monsoon season. The distance covered today was quite large but since the terrain was relatively flat and downhill, we breezed through it quickly (led by the i-Pod Himalayan speed walkers). We stopped for lunch in Jomson, the administrative headquarters for the Mustang region with an air strip, bank, and shady looking hospital.

One of the things we noticed on this side of the pass is the prevalence of Dutch and German bakeries. There seemed to be one or two in every village and Jomson was no different. However, most of the bakeries were either closed or offered no baked goods since it is not high season. I guess trekking during high season (October/November or March) does have its benefits – warmer weather and more tasty options. However, the peace of seeing only the odd trekker once in a while and having the tranquility of the mountains (and teahouses) to ourselves definitely overrides the desire to have a slice of apple cake in every village. Much like the signs that boasted “hot showers” which were in reality solar heated water that was considered “not freezing” at best, we came to understand that “bakeries” at this time of year was just a place to have a hot drink.

After being spoiled in Kagbeni, we were disappointed to find that the teahouse in Marpha had one shared toilet per 14 people. It was a western one, but we’ve come to prefer squat toilets if it’s going to be shared. Shoddy plumbing and wonky toilet seats/lids aside, the users of western toilets seem to have trouble aiming. After dropping off our bags, Eric and I went for a walk with Prem and Ram, two of our assistant guides. Marpha is another town which I imagine would be bustling during high season. There were a lot of shops selling various arts, crafts, and jewelry, with the owners all pleading “Just come look! Looking is free!” One of the most popular and nicest teahouses in town burned down just the day before… it was just a pile of smoldering rubble today. I asked Prem if they had something like insurance and he said no – the owners would rely on the donations of the locals and of trekkers to rebuild.

Marpha is known for its apple brandy and apple pie, but the trees were bare and leafless when we were there. We had apple pie for dessert after dinner that night but it was disappointing for a place that is known for it.