Kayaking at Cave Lodge

 The day after we came back from the 3 day trek we did a kayaking / caving trip. We had the option to just go kayaking through the caves, but we decided to stop in the caves. But since the water level was really high we each had our own guides.

                                                  The first cave had a pre-historic painting. 

                                                  The second one had a great spot for a picture.  

And the third one had A LOT of bat poop and some log coffins. ( I couldn't find a good photo of the bat poop but you can see it on the ground and there's people collecting it in the background) 

After we exited the cave we did 4 km of rapids which was my favourite part. 

This is a video in the rapids: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5nojgzNKs1KEd3sMA

Kayaking was so fun, I wanted to do the rapids again!

Hilltribe Trek

We each packed a small backpack for the trek, including a water bottle, an extra bottle of water, and a packed lunch wrapped in banana leaves.  Our big backpacks were stored at the guesthouse and our passports were locked up with the front desk.

After a hearty breakfast at Cave Lodge we met our guides, Pat and Jaka.  Pat was born in Pai and has worked at Cave Lodge for over twenty years, first as a cook and then as a guide.  Jaka is from the Karen hilltribe village of Ban Muang Paem where we would be staying on the second night.  The first thing we noticed was their attire. Pat was covered head to toe with very little skin showing: hiking shoes, socks over pants, t-shirt with long sleeved light jacket, a brimmed hat, and a backpack.  Jaka was wearing slides (!), jeans (!), a long sleeve sweatshirt (!), a hat, machete, and a backpack.  We appeared underdressed in our tank tops/t-shirts, shorts, and whatever running shoe we had (Ava was wearing Air Jordans 😆).  

We were each handed a bamboo trekking pole and off we went!  First we walked past a "Danger - Do Not Enter" sign onto a large bridge and were advised to walk spaced apart one by one.  The day before, we were told to avoid this route altogether because the bridge was damaged and dangerous 😬.  After we all safely crossed, Pat showed us how the bridge was no longer firmly anchored to the ground because there was recently a large party on the bridge that loosened it and now they needed to reinforce the supports 😨.

The first day of trekking was 5 hours consisting largely of a steep uphill climb.  The bamboo trekking poles were extremely helpful since it was slippery in some places, and it helped provide stability when we had to take steep steps down.  The path was not used often and was quite overgrown in places so Jaka had to chop through parts of it with his machete.  We stopped at a small waterfall and Pat refilled her water bottle with the cold fresh mountain water, but told us foreigners that we should stick with bottled water because she wasn't sure our guts could handle it 😞.  Not worth having the squirts on a multi-day trek with no flushing toilets or running water, I suppose.  

After a few hours, we stopped for lunch and had chicken fried rice and a banana muffin.  It was weird to throw the packaging on the jungle floor, even though it was just banana leaves.  One of the fun things that Oren and Iyla liked to do, at Jaka's suggestion, was to kick big rocks down the edge and see how far they would roll... and on and on they rolled since it was very steep in places (hopefully not hitting a creature at the bottom).  All I could think about was how unfun it would be for one of us to slip and roll down the hill.  Luckily, we didn't have to find out!

  

As we approached the village, we saw cows and buffalo that the villagers had let out to graze.  At one point, we were practically wearing our shoes on the sides of our feet as we tried to walk along the very steep rice paddies.  Even though we were pretty tired, we were very glad that we opted for the 3 day trek because the thought of going back on the same trail, but downhill and trying not to slip, was terrifying.  

By mid-afternoon we arrived at the Red Lahu hilltribe village of Ban Pha Mon.  Most of the houses are built on stilts and their animals roamed around underneath.  The village previously relied on solar power but have had electricity for the past year.  Our hosts are a husband and wife, and one of their children owns a store in the village.  We had a large room to ourselves with mattresses and mosquito nets.  It was surprising to see how strong bamboo flooring is (Eric walked along the joists for good measure)!  The home had several roosters, lots of chickens, and a family of pigs, as well as visits from neighboring dogs and cats.  

     

After settling in, we had a snack of local corn.  They were small, chewy, and starchy and very different from what we get at the cottage in Gananoque.  Very yummy!  

We happily changed out of our shoes and into Crocs, and Pat took us for a walk around the village, pointing out where the village store rice, dry garlic, and the various fruits and vegetables that they grow.  Most of the villagers are farmers and were still out in the fields, so we didn't see very many people.

Jaka made Oren a bamboo "gun" and showed him how to roll up little toilet paper "bullets" and use the poor hens and chicks for target practice.  The gun would make a loud bang complete with a puff of smoke.  It was impressive!  For what it's worth, the chickens didn't seem to mind at all and would go running toward the "bullets" to see if it was edible.

There are two bathrooms each with a squat toilet and a bucket of water to flush. There was also a bathing room with a huge tub of fresh water.  To bathe, you would use pail to pour water over yourself.  It was cold and refreshing and much needed after the long sweaty hike.  

The kitchen had an open fire and a basket of chilis drying above it.  Dinner was chicken curry, sweet and sour chicken, omelet, rice and an absolutely delicious (and spicy) chili dip that Jaka made with garlic, shallots, lemongrass, chilis, and cilantro.  It was exceptionally flavourful and addictive and we slathered it on everything.

We dined in the fresh mountain air against the backdrop of the farmer fields and their garden where they grew chilis, limes, papayas, tamarind, eggplant, coffee beans and many other things that I don't know the names of.  It was peaceful and perfect.  

 

Jaka tried to convince Eric to get a massage.  I'm not sure if there actually was a Red Lahu village massage place, but we have come to realize that when Jaka says it's time for a massage, what he really means is that it's time for an alcoholic drink (an internal gut massage, perhaps?).  We ended up declining evening festivities and went to bed early that night since I wasn't feeling well and we were all exhausted from the trek.  

It's surprising how loud nature can be!  The chorus of frogs, crickets, cicadas, and various other insects was almost deafening so it took a while to fall asleep (not me - I had earplugs 😊).  The mattress was also quite thin so Eric and I had to alternate sleeping on our backs (to give our hips a break) and sleeping on our sides (to give our backs a break).  The roosters below us let us know when it was the crack of dawn so we were up early, listening to the sounds of crowing, clucking, and oinking.  

After breakfast, we thanked our hosts and headed out on another 5 hour trekking day.  Pat informed us that there would be leeches so we put on pants and socks (except Eric who didn't bring pants!).  Other than the leeches, it was a really fun and pleasant hike on day two!  The terrain was relatively flat and we crossed many streams so it didn't feel too hot.

Jaka collected cucumber vines and when we arrived at a particular spot in the river he gave them to the kids to feed the fish.  The fish went WILD for it and splashed and tugged and pulled and clamored over each other to eat it.  It was incredible to see!  The fish were giant - some the size of Eric's from knee to ankle.  Before we could ask, we were told that fishing was prohibited in this part of the jungle.

      

Jaka also found the perfect berry bullets for Oren to use in his bamboo gun.  He said the village kids used these because they were the perfect size and hard enough to shoot but soft enough to squish into the bamboo shaft.  Lots of target practice on the trek that day - Jaka would make targets out of his chest (!), leaves, rocks, and distant trees and Oren would practice his aim.  No animals or siblings were harmed on this trek.

We stopped at Jaka's uncle's stilt hut by a rice field and they prepared a lunch of Mama instant noodles with vegetables served in bamboo bowls.  It was a lovely place to rest!  We had passed Jaka's uncle earlier - he is 90+ years old and in great shape and is still tending to the fields!   

Jaka made us each bamboo mugs and carved our names into them.  Best souvenirs ever 💗.  He also made Iyla a top using a chopstick and a large flat seed.  

Jaka said that the water pipe to his village had broken and was being fixed but he he wasn't sure there would be water available that evening.  We had the option of going on a side quest to a nearby cave, but opted instead to go to a waterfall to bathe.  It was refreshing and fun!

We arrived at the Karen hilltribe village of Ban Muang Paem by mid-afternoon and stayed at Jaka's home where he lives with his wife, several of his kids, and grandchildren.  His 95 year old mother lives in the hut next door.

A truck pulled up outside and they were selling pork siu mai (2 baht each) and steamed bao filled with either pork or red bean (20 baht each).  We enjoyed the tasty snack as we settled in and the kids played Uno with Jaka's youngest daughter.  

I tried to help prepare dinner by peeling the fuzzy parts off the cucumber plant stems that were going in a soup.  I was very bad at it and noticed that Pat had to go through my handywork and make corrections 😆.  Jaka made his delicious chili dip with the help of his grandson.  Throughout the day, Pat had been collecting bits of herbs and vegetables (wild eggplants, bitter melon, chilis, basil, herbs) - these went into our meal as well.      

Dinner is served: cucumber leaf soup, pork and pumpkin curry, pad gra pao, steamed white rice, Jaka's chili dip (this time with tinned sardines in tomato sauce), and fresh snake beans and hearts of palm to dip it in.

After dinner, Jaka and Eric had a massage.  Jaka had the munchies so he fried up some garlic and wild boar that he bought at the previous village.  It was spectacular!  The fat had a nice chew to it and the meat was surprisingly tender and very flavourful. 

There were three bathrooms at the back of the house, with squat toilets and a bucket to flush.  There was a shower (of sorts) but the broken water pipe wasn't fixed until later that evening so it was a good thing we bathed in the waterfall!  The next morning, we had planned to go into the jungle to forage for breakfast items, but it had rained so it was slippery and dangerous (for foreigners, probably).  Instead, Jaka took us for a walk around his village and showed us around.  We picked dragon fruit and he offered us some homegrown tobacco rolled in corn husks (we declined).  We saw some of the villagers weave textiles in their traditional way.  Many of the Karen elders in the village still wear traditional clothing.  I asked a lovely elder if I could take a picture of her and her beautiful traditional outfit 😍.        

We met Jaka's aunt, who is 105 years old and tied with another woman as being the oldest in the village.  The secret, he said, was the clean mountain air, fresh mountain water, freshly foraged or locally grown vegetables with no pesticides, and lots of exercise working in the fields.      

When we arrived back at Jaka's house, Pat had breakfast ready for us: chocolate and regular pancakes, coffee and ovaltine, watermelon, bananas, and the dragon fruit we just picked.  We also had some leftover rice, soup, and Jaka's chili dip for good measure.  

Before we packed up to leave, we had the opportunity to buy some local crafts.  One of the things we bought was a bag made by Jaka's wife.  We gave this to Ilana for her birthday!

The last day of the trek was shorter (about 3 hrs) and easier since we were able to wade through many river crossings along the Phaem River.  We did this until we reached the junction of the Mae Lang River, which is much deeper and faster.  From there we took the overland route back to Cave Lodge.  We met two women foraging for mushrooms.  I showed them a big beautiful mushroom nearby and they informed us that it was most definitely NOT edible 😅!  On the walk back through the village, we walked by Pat's house where she picked a papaya for us from her yard.  We devoured it right there, on the road, and it was juicy, fragrant, perfectly ripe, refreshing and so good!     

We arrived back at Cave Lodge in the early afternoon.  We were thrilled to take off our filthy mud caked shoes and take a shower.  It's funny how just a few days ago, the Cave Lodge amenities seemed very rustic, but on that day, it was luxurious!  Pat and Jaka made us lunch - cashew chicken and vegetables with rice.  

Jaka and Eric had one last massage, and then we said thank you and farewell to our wonderful guides.  Along the way, Pat and Jaka had showed us so many amazing things - medicinal herbs for a variety of ailments (cramps, gas, nausea, stomach aches, rashes), teak tree leaves that turned red if you rubbed the leaves together (perfect for feigning injuries inflicted by the bamboo gun), a tickling tree that moved its leaves when you gently touched its trunk, edible jungle fruits and vegetables (wild passionfruit is so delicious!), poisonous jungle fruits and vegetables, beautiful orchids I've never seen before, the different varieties of bamboo used for building or flooring or furniture or eating, a soapy plant that you could fashion into a bubble blower, a plant with beautiful flowers that you could transform into earrings complete with a built in clip, etc.    

The trek exceeded our expectations.  We did not see a single other tourist or foreigner the whole time.  Pat and Jaka were so patient, informative, and happy to share their knowledge and culture.  Thank you, from the bottom of our hearts!  We hope to see you again someday.   

Cave Lodge

One of the things we wanted to experience in Thailand was a hilltribe trek.  I had read horror stories about some of the over-trekked routes near Chiang Mai where villages were designed to appear primitive (tourists sleep on straw mats on the floor, locals sleep on real beds behind closed doors) and propped up to look authentic (locals trade in their jeans and wear traditional clothing for the sake of the tourists).  Even worse were staged long neck villages where girls wear rings around their elongated necks and tourists a charged a fee to see them.  There are ethical concerns that these people are imported from Myanmar with limited rights and are used for profit, and that the practice of neck elongation is no longer common and is being staged for tourism.  We wanted to avoid these potential issues and find something off the beaten track.  This is how we ended up at Cave Lodge, a four hour drive northwest from Chiang Mai, near the Myanmar border. 

Before heading to Cave Lodge, we checked out of Lanna Bonita Boutique Hotel and went to the local market for breakfast and found some delicious pork skewers (5 baht each!), a very flavorful northern Thai sausage with garlic, lemongrass, and limeleaf (12 baht), Thai iced teas (15 baht), iced coffees (20 baht), and dragonfruit/avocado/mango smoothie (40 baht).  That was probably my favorite breakfast this whole trip and it was $7 total for the 5 of us.  You just can't beat the local market for value and deliciosity.  There were so many other tasty tidbits we wanted to try (as well as tidbits we didn't want to try, like this comb/hive with pinky sized larvae, some visibly wriggling - a Google search revealed that this was likely Asian giant hornet larvae).

Since we didn't want to rent a vehicle, and didn't have the guts for public transportation with three kids (instructions: take public bus to nearby village, stop at the minimart, try to find and wave down five motorbike taxis to take you the rest of the way 😨), Cave Lodge suggested we contact Mr. Meechai to arrange private transportation.  Mr. Meechai's son, Tom, picked us up in an air conditioned mini bus for the drive to Cave Lodge.  We made a couple of pit stops, including a lookout point near Pai with beautiful scenery and a questionable ferris wheel.  The second half of the drive was on a very steep and windy road, and it really tested the limits of Gravol.  We were all happy to arrive at the guesthouse!    

Cave Lodge is located in the village of Ban Tham Lod in a beautiful area overlooking the Mae Lang river.  John Spies, an Australian, built the place in 1984 with his first wife and raised two children there.  John is an adventurer and became an avid caver, discovered many of the caves and artifacts in the area, and has been heavily involved in helping to preserve local traditions and artifacts.  He and his second wife, Nang, a local Shan from the village, have lived in and managed the guesthouse for years.  They recently moved a few minutes walk away in the village, but are at the guesthouse on most days.    

The common area of the guesthouse is built from bamboo and teak and by all accounts (including old photos of the guesthouse on the walls), has hardly changed in 40+ years.  There are many posters with hand drawn maps ("not to scale", "impossible to get lost"), descriptions of the caving/ kayaking/trekking trips on offer, menu items, archeological information, historical tidbits, local information, and fascinating pictures that John took in his early travels in the area.  There is a cozy firepit, hammocks, various tables, chairs, benches, helpful staff and two friendly dogs.  You can just tell there there have been many, many adventures and stories shared at Cave Lodge!  It has a relaxed, chill, slightly grimy, communal 90s backpacker vibe.

We stayed in bungalow A1, which has a private bathroom, double bed, single bed, and a loft with another 2 beds.  It is rustic, clean, and comfortable - similar to the cottage in Gananoque - except in the jungles of northern Thailand.  There was a heavy rain a few days prior to our arrival so the river was milk chocolate brown, quite high and running fast, so unfortunately, there was no swimming for us.  After settling in, we had lunch at the guesthouse (I had nam prik, which is a Shan chili paste served with veggies and rice, Eric had pad gra pow, and the kids had Thai chicken and pork noodles soups).  

Before dusk, we walked 20 minutes to the outflow of Tham Lod Cave.  Every evening, several hundred thousand cave-adapted fork-tailed swifts fly into the chamber to roost for the night while a large colony of bats exit, and we had heard that it is a spectacular show.  We were accompanied (or rather, led) by a local stray dog we named Kevin.  It's like she knew where we were going and led us right to the cave!  The cave had a unique smell from the plethora of bird and bat droppings.  Some of us thought it smelled like roast chicken - I beg to differ.  We arrived just after 6 PM and saw some birds flying around in circles in the sky near the cave and we thought we missed the bird show.  Kevin munched on a bird that she found on the ground.  By 6:30 PM, it was an Alfred Hitchcock like tornado of birds entering the cave at high speed with echo-location screeches.  It was mesmerizing, and one of the most amazing things I've ever witnessed.  

We headed back to the guesthouse, led by Kevin the dog, and had dinner.  The Shan and Thai food was decent but nothing special, so Ava and I had our first non-Asian meal on the trip... we shared an egg, bacon, cheese, tomato lettuce sandwich on a homemade whole wheat baguette.  It was delicious!

Most of the activities can be arranged the day of or the day before.  We were all pretty tired and debated whether we wanted to do a 2 day or a 3 day trek.  The 2 day trek was an out-and-back trail (i.e., we hike there and back on the same trail) and the 3 day trek was a loop trail.  No one had strong feelings either way, but Eric convinced us that we came all this way specifically for this adventure and it would be worthwhile to do the longer trek, and we all agreed.  We made arrangements with the staff for a three day two night trek to visit two hilltribe villages, starting at 9 the next morning.