Bye bye Khao Sok

After Cheow Lan Lake, we spent another night at Our Jungle Camp.  It is a beautiful eco resort on a stunning property next to limestone cliffs and the river, they have excellent customer service, organized tours, clean spacious, comfortable rooms with lovely scented soaps, and several friendly cats.  They have an "award winning chef"... but we're not sure if their award was for the food.  The thing is, Our Jungle Camp is catered to Western tourists (hence the outstanding customer service and cleanliness standards and Western prices), but the Thai food on the menu was surprisingly not great (e.g., soggy unflavourful noodles in my pad see ew).  Maybe the spaghetti, schnitzel, tuna sandwiches, and burgers and fries were "award winning" but we never tested it out 🫤. 

We walked into the town of Khao Sok, about 15 minutes away, for dinner.  The whole strip seemed to be a repetitive stream of cannabis shops, massage parlors, hostels, tour outfitters, bars, and restaurants with large Western menus and small Thai ones at the back of the book.  We picked a restaurant and, not surprisingly, had an overpriced mediocre Thai dinner.

Khao Sok was one of the highlights of our trip in 2006, but it has changed so much in 19 years, as have I.  It's not my jam anymore, but we still made some great memories here!

Cheow Lan Lake

After one night at Our Jungle Camp, we headed out after breakfast for an overnight at rafthouse on Cheow Lan Lake.  On the way to the pier, we stopped at a market and bought a hand of mini bananas and stewed local durian (mochi-like).  We took a relaxing and picturesque tail boat ride the Phutawan rafthouse.

See the modern looking units on the left with private bathrooms and AC?  We didn't stay in those.  

We had three of the simple units on the right.  Ava had her own and was sandwiched between Iyla/me and Oren/Eric.  The rooms were comfortable and clean and each had their own deck area with a ladder into the cool turquoise water.  I was concerned about the floaty-ness since I get seasick.  During the day it was bobbing around from all the traffic, but fortunately at night it was stable.

However, the shared washrooms were a minute walk away, which is fine except I had to pee at 4:30 in the morning and my imagination was quite active after we watched an episode of "A Murder at the End of the World" before bed 😰😆.

After lunch at the rafthouse, we went on a scenic boat tour of the lake, walked through Pra Pai Petch cave, and went for a short hike.  Then it was back to the rafthouse for a swim before dinner.  

There is a small fish farm at Phutawan, but Oren and Iyla enjoyed feeding the giant wild lake fish that swam up beside the restaurant (too boney to eat and not legal to fish anyways - we asked!).  They were massive and clearly well fed by the tourists.

The next day, we went for an early morning safari at 7 am.  It was beautiful and peaceful in the national park.  After breakfast and a swim, we headed back to the pier.  

Our guide for the lake tour was KC (which appropriately sounds a lot like "crazy").  KC was full of energy... and all he has for breakfast is kratom leaves.  He said that local guides often just chew on kratom leaves since they wake up early and eat at odd times, so it helps with stomach issues.  I've learned that kratom leaves have opioid like properties and stimulant effects.

KC was a great guide and he said he likes to bring joy to tourists.  He succeeded!  He made the time for special touches (especially when he saw that we "eat same same Thai people"): getting fresh rambutan at the market to go with our lunch, surprising us with a delicious sticky rice banana dessert as a snack, getting us an actually spicy pad gra pow (basil pork) for lunch at the end of the tour instead of the standard chicken fried rice, hooking us up with the driver's wife's homemade stewed durian, and stopping at the side of the road for local durians (much smaller, bigger seed, less meat, but very fragrant).  We bought 2 for 70 baht (about $3)!

The only thing that would have made this tour better was if the Liangs were able to join us.  Unfortunately, Elise contracted dengue fever and required daily blood testing, so they headed to Koh Samui early (hospitals are more accessible there than in Khao Sok).  She is recovering well now ❤️

Our Jungle Camp

 Here is a photo of the 2 story stilt house that we shared with Liv and Elle (Don't mind the cat this is the only picture I could find of the interior of the cabin).

On the first day, after we got settled into our cabin, we went to go swimming in the river. The river was visible from our cabin but we had to go to the beach entrance which was about 500 meters away. It was very refreshing and we skipped rocks next to the cliffs.

We saw a rope in the distance and realized that was one of the ropes we saw on the video of Our Jungle Camp. We swam over and I spent the rest of the afternoon there. We were even climbing the roots of a tree, so that we can go higher and jump into the water about 2 meters in the air. Don't worry, the river was pretty deep and was about 1 foot taller than my head. When you splash into the water, sometimes you can see a school of fish swimming by which was also pretty cool. Here is a photo of me in the air on the rope.

Mommy and Daddy didn't think the food was that special here and I don't think it was that bad, but it's just that we've had way better food at the previous places we've been to. 

On the bright side, at least the drinks were pretty good.

The Ample Forest

 After the overnight train, we had a quick breakfast at a local restaurant across the street from the train station. Then we took a van to the Ample Forest. Then we went to our rooms. Liv, Elise and me were in one room, Ava, Oren and Elle were in another and each couple had their own room. 

After we got in our rooms we hung out on the rooftop and pet the cats of course 🐱🐈❤️.

Later that evening we went to a cooking class on property for Liv and Penny's birthday. We got to pick all the ingredients were fresh from their garden. We made green curry, grilled chicken, sticky rice , mochi coconut balls and fried mixed vegetables, with a side of fresh fruits. Which was served in polished coconut bowls and we ate out of a bamboo tube.

Overnight Train Bangkok > Surat Thani

We took an overnight train from Bangkok to Surat Thani after our one night stay at the Ordinary hotel with the Liangs. We had our bunks together, but our cousins section of bunk beds were in the cart behind us. We were pretty lucky and mostly slept well but our cousins didn't get as lucky with the people around them. Uncle Loong's top bunkmate got his friends on top with and across him drinking beer and being loud with sandy feet dusting on his bed and food crumbs falling down (the bottom bed was also almost twice the size as the top)!!

The beds themselves were decent, but the bathrooms weren't that nice. The mirrors and sinks were just sticky dirty and creaky, and same with the toilets, but with everything splashing around, it stunk really bad. Some people completely avoided them during the whole 10.5 hours (which was pretty smart)!

One Night in Bangkok

One night in Bangkok was not enough!  There were too many delicious things to eat and not enough time to digest them all.  Plus, it was the last time that the 15 of us would be together on this trip so we wanted to savor it.

Penny and I planned to get the age spots on our faces removed at the Makalin Clinic (which Steph and two of our cousins did with astounding results).  After the consultation and then reading one particularly terrible Google review, we both chickened out and were ready to bail... but then Steph showed up and convinced us it would be okay, so we proceeded!  I won't bore you with the details... peeps who are interested, DM me and I'll share details and pictures 😆

Meanwhile, the others walked around Central World Mall, went to Big C supermarket, and ate delicious things at the food stalls outside.  The Thai iced tea at ChaTraMue is excellent!  It is fragrant and brewed from real tea leaves (not a powdered mix) and has customizable sugar levels.

The next day, we checked out of Hotel Ordinary (it was not ordinary at all - it exceeded my expectations!), left our bags at Steph's hotel in the Chinatown area, and walked around Icon Siam, a huge, clean, modern mall with beautifully displayed (overpriced but delicious) food options.  We went upstairs to take a peek at what kind of shops were there, saw Alexander McQueen, and promptly came back downstairs to the safety of the food vendors.

We went back to the Chinatown area and had Nai Ek Roll Noodle for lunch.  There's a reason for the line up!  It was excellent, with juicy crispy pork.  Emmeline always manages to find the best food joints!

After wandering around and getting more nibbles at the street food vendors, it was time to head to the train station for our overnight train to Surat Thani.  Bye-bye Kuoch family!

(Elise was in the bathroom for this pic... doh!)

 

I 💔 Cambodia

We saw very different sides of Cambodia.  

On our floating village tour near Siem Reap, I had the opportunity to have good discussions, ask questions, and gain insight from our guide An, who grew up a nearby village. Although he is younger than me, it is apparent that he has had a hard life and is in poor health.  He asked if we wanted to walk into one of the villages, but warned that we would see extreme poverty.  I asked him if it would be rude or frowned upon for us to visit and he said no, so we went.  

The stilt houses in the village are built very close to each other.  Some are made with scraps of corrugated tin, which get very hot in an already sweltering climate.  Some have walls made of wood scraps or plastic sheets.  Some do not even have four walls.  Everything seemed to be covered in brown red dust.  In stark contrast to this was what appeared to be a church in the middle of the village with Korean missionaries singing and dancing in bright clean colorful dresses.  This seemed to provide some entertainment and smiles from the small crowd gathered in front.

There were children playing, some with no clothes and most with no shoes.  An said that folks struggle to live day by day so they do not put much value in education, health, or hygiene.  These are luxuries afforded to those who see a future.  

I did not take pictures.  It felt disrespectful to capture their daily struggles as a spectacle for my own memories.

My Dad's description of the extreme poverty in the village where he grew up sounds similar to what we saw in this village in Siem Reap (minus the missionaries).  Steph and I talked about how this could have been us.  But then again, based on all the risks they took and sacrifices they made, we realized that my Dad and Mom are likely too resourceful and forward thinking for this to have been our lives.   

 

An was able to make a better life for himself by diligently attending the free English lessons that were offered at a nearby temple. But he, like so many young folks, suffered from malnutrition and rotting teeth as a child, and now suffers from gastrointestinal issues and other maladies.  On our boat ride through the waterways of the floating village, a 14 year old boy with a shy smile was helping the boat driver tie up the boat and helping tourists get on and off the boat.  He also offered massages to the passengers.  Eric and Evan welcomed the massages 😁.  An told me it was one of the (safe) ways that folks make money to help out their families. 

Meanwhile, there is the modern Aeon Mall in Phnom Penh with its huge bright scrolling billboards and fancy stores.  It is just 2 kilometers from the Choeung Ek killing fields.

Cambodia is where my parents grew up, where my sisters were born, and where my Aunt, Uncle, and cousins live.  Thank you, Cambodia.  You will always have a special place in my heart.

Tasty Tidbits

Num banh jok (rice noodles with fish curry) - I love that it is served with an assortment of fresh herbs, flowers, and veggies).

Coconut sticky rice with durian sauce and egg custard - do you see the 😍 in his eyes?

Coconut iced coffee - strong coffee topped with fresh coconut juice and coconut flesh. Perfect way to start the day!

These grilled pork skewers at the Russian night market were so juicy, tender, and flavorful!

Light and fluffy and slightly sweet cake.  We bought several of these!

One of the many massive containers of durian that my Aunt and Uncle brought for dessert at the hot pot restaurant.

On the drive from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh, the rest stop sold lots of snacks including assorted insects.  We* tried the silk worms and grasshoppers (these were HUGE).

  *I... couldn't do it

Tuol Sleng and Killing Kields

We visited the high school turned torture and interrogation centre known as S-21, or Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.  We also visited the execution and burial site known as the killing fields, or Choeung Ek Genocidal Center.  The audio guides were really helpful to provide the history and context of what we were seeing.  And what we were seeing was absolutely horrifying.  It is humbling and sobering to be in the same space where so much fear, pain, suffering, and death occurred.

Interestingly, neither my Aunt and Uncle, my Mom and Dad, nor Steve's parents have visited these places.  Why when you have lived through the war?

I am in awe of my family in Cambodia. My Aunt and Uncle and their six kids managed to survive the Pol Pot labour camps (and they even had another child afterwards!). Luckily, my Uncle had skills deemed "useful" by the labour camp leader - he was able to fix things and make pots. Because of this, their lives were spared, they were given extra food rations, and they were even allowed to bury my Grandmother.  My Aunt was very proud to let us know that she was able to take care of our Grandmother and that she died of natural causes at the age of 49 at the labour camp and NOT in the hands of Pol Pot*. Recently, my Dad and Aunt were able to buy the land (a random farmer's field) where Grandmother is buried. Unfortunately we didn't have time to visit pay our respects on this visit.

*My Grandmother's three brothers were killed by being hit in the back of the head by a hoe and thrown into a mass burial pit.

My Family in Cambodia

My sisters and I wanted to go to Phnom Penh with all of the kids to meet my Dad's younger sister (his only sibling) and her family - and to learn/appreciate the struggles in Cambodia and our family's history.  We chose to stay at Queen Mansion Hotel because it is a 3 minute walk from my Aunt's house, and 6 minute walk to the Russian market.

In the morning after we arrived, some of my cousins met us at our hotel and we went for Cambodian noodle soup, and then visited my cousin's auto parts shop at the Russian market.  She sent us home with 5 kg of delicious mangosteens which we happily devoured :)  

In the evening (after work and school for their kids), we met at my Aunt and Uncle's house.  She is adorable and looks like my Dad with longer hair!  

My cousins warned us that the elderly folks likely wouldn't join us for dinner since my Aunt is not very mobile... but she did!  She said she her heart was beating so hard (which worried me at first...) and with such happiness that she had the energy to join us 🥰.  All 28 of us went for dinner at Master Suki Soup (hot pot restaurant) at the new Japanese built Aeon Mall.  This mall was over the top fancy and puts Yorkdale Mall to shame!  It was a shocking juxtaposition to the poverty we witnessed in other parts of Cambodia. 

For dessert, my family had brought like 10 kg of fresh durian meat to enjoy at the restaurant.  They were delighted (or was it shock and awe?) to see Eric in his glory.

I have seven first cousins on my Dad's side.  Eric and I met some of them during our visit in 2006.  This time we were able to meet four of them in person and had videocalls with two others who live in Sweden and Thailand (one lives in California and we met him when he visited Philadelphia years ago).  We videocalled my Dad so that we were all together.  One cousin had driven 8 hours from Poipet with her husband to meet us!  Thanks to my cousin's kids (especially Linda and Neat) we had English/Khmer translators who helped us communicate, plan, and figure out transportation for our mob!  It was an absolute honour and a very special day to meet and visit with everyone.  

  

Family Tour Day in Siem Reap

Steph arranged a jam packed, private, full day tour to Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom city complex, Ta Prohm (think Tomb Raider) and the Cambodia Landmine Museum.  Steve's parents opted out because his Mom wasn't feeling well, so it was "just" the 15 of us.  Mr. Kim is the same tour guide who took Steph and Emmeline on their tour 5 years ago.  He was full of knowledge, energy, patience, and jokes (he was constantly cracking himself up and cackling with infectious laughter, which was more hilarious than his jokes).

We were picked up at 4:30 am for sunrise at Angkor Wat.  It was cloudy, so it was really just being there as the skies got brighter over Angkor Wat.  Still spectacular!

After sunrise, we went for breakfast at Chep Por Noodles Soup.  It was apparently one of the first restaurants in the area to open after the Khmer Rouge left, so it's been around for a while and it's a favorite for locals.

The temples are magnificent, and the intricate architecture and designs created almost a thousand years ago is jaw dropping.  But after a very hot and humid few hours of walking around Angkor Thom and Ta Prohm in pants and shoulder-covering tops, I can safely say that most of us (myself included) were templed out.  There were several questions from the kids about what time their favorite smoothie shop and the pool closes 😆

For lunch, we had lort cha (Cambodian pin noodles) and chive rice cakes at a local restaurant.  It was cheap, cheerful, fresh,  and delicious! 

We went to the Cambodia Landmine Museum after lunch.  Our guide works with a small team who assess areas suspected to have unexploded ordnances (UXO), and then safely detonate/diffuse and remove them.  To this day, it is not uncommon for people to be killed or maimed by them.  Education is so important so that villagers and children know to avoid and report the presence UXOs.  

In an area where a village was building a school, they found an alarming amount of UXOs (red dots in the map).  Recently, after an education session where they reassured the children that they wouldn't be in trouble for telling them about potential UXOs that they found, a child showed the guide a cluster bomb that he had hidden under his bed 😰

At the end of the busy day, i am happy to report that the kids did get smoothies and pool time.

 

The Phare Circus!

Today, we opted for an evening at the circus! 

9 young men returning in 1994 to Battambong province from a refugee camp after the Khmer Rouge set up an art and music school. They wanted to help others the way drawing helped them deal with their experiences during the war. Circus became part of the curriculum and they now have over 1200 students at the school and run this professional circus as a way to employ students who want to continue with it as a career (https://pharecircus.org/).

We had no idea what to expect going in and it totally blew our minds! We arrived early and their venue turns the entire evening into an end to end experience. You enter into the shop where they had some really neat local hand made crafts both normal and circus themed.

Then into the large seating area outside the big top, where there was a variety of "street" food stands, drinks and music. We had a tasty variety of things while being entertained by some students from the school performing traditional Cambodian dance. We all continue to be amazed and mesmerized by the hand motions in this style of dance. 

Finally, it was time to enter the tent for the main show. The show was a combination of live artwork being created throughout (painting and rice art on the stage), live music, and of course the acts themselves. They were great! They had a great variety of skills on display, from hand balancing, acrobatics, tumbling, teeter board, rola bola, diablo, and juggling.

I have a soft spot for the old school hand to hand and 2/3 high routines, but surprisingly, the rola bola and diablo routines really blew us all away.  The rola bola was done on a tiny raised platform on top of the rickety little cart that the band used as their portable stage.  Regulation and insurance really have a way of dampening the fun back home...

The show was awesome, culminating in the assembly of several freshlypainted canvasses into a huge mural followed by a meet and greet with the performers. We opted to skip the meet and greet as it was super crowded, but by that time we had been thoroughly amazed and were ready to head back to the hotel.

We took the opportunity to try our first tuktuk and it didn't disappoint!